Friday, January 17, 2014

Coals Artisan Pizza-- Best in the Derby City?

I've been told that Coals Artisan Pizza, 3730 Frankfort Avenue in Louisville, KY (or is it in St. Matthews? It's certainly close to downtown St.M) in the upscale shopping complex that has grown up around the old Vogue Theatre, is the closest to true New York style pizza you'll get in that fair city.  I dunno if that's true, since Louisville has a LOT of pizza places, but I do know I love Coals' pizza even if it isn't "Louisville Style", which as I understand it is the piling on of toppings without any extra cheese or sauce. (Bearno's is supposed to be a good example of Louisville style, which I always loved.  There was a Bearno's here in downtown Indy for awhile but I believe it has closed).  

Coals has a coal-fired brick oven that supposedly operates at almost 1000 degrees, which produces a delicious toasty, crispy crust in about four minutes.  It's thicker than the cracker-thin crust you get at Donato's or with Pizza Hut's Thin 'n Crispy, yet it is every bit as toasty and crisp.  The array of gourmet toppings you can get in both red and white pizza is quite varied, and several combinations of toppings are named after Louisville neighborhoods.  We had lunch there and I had the Clifton, which is a red pizza with a combination of onions, peppers and cheeses as well as Italian sausage that had me singing its praises, much to the dismay of other diners because I don't sing very well.  Some of the user reviews in TripAdvisor said this place is pricey, but the lunch deal was really decent-- a 10" personal pizza and a large side salad for $8.95  The salad was extremely fresh, and it was showered with diced cubes of mozzarella cheese.  Some reviews said the tables were too close together, but I didn't find it to be any worse than Cracker Barrel!  The orgasmic climax to this, my dream pizza experience was that they have a FULL BAR!  Woohoo!  What's not to like?  Huh?  Huh?  Mangia!

Monday, January 13, 2014

The Galt House Hotel: A Grand Deal on a Grand Hotel

The Galt House, 144 N. 4th Street in Louisville, KY right on the Ohio River, garners more respect and admiration from me every time we stay there.  It's listed in most directories as a 3.5 star hotel, which baffles me because it has every amenity you could want except for an indoor pool.  The nearby Hyatt is listed as 4 stars, and it is nowhere near as nice the the GH, as far as I'm concerned.  If you're ever planning a weekend visit to the Derby City, the Galt House is really the place to stay.  It is older but impeccably maintained and several areas have recently been renovated.  Because GH caters primarily to business travelers and convention visitors, you can really get a deal there during holiday periods when neither of those groups travel much.  The last time we stayed there was during the week between Christmas and New Year's Day, and this time we checked in on New Year's Day for two days.  Both times, we got a really great price ($53 per day + $13/day in taxes and fees this last time through Priceline.com vs. the advertised price of $114/day) and both times they upgraded us to a suite at no extra charge, which had a sitting room w/TV, a big bedroom with TV, and an elegant glass-door shower big enough for 4 people! The only drawback to being there New Year's Day was that the place seemed virtually empty except for that boy riding his big wheel and the two little twin sisters in matching dresses, whom we passed often in the hallway....  I thought at first we had no warm water, but it turns out there were so few guests that it just took a long time for the hot stuff to be drawn up to our 3rd floor room from the boiler! After running the shower for about ten minutes we finally had all the steamy goodness we needed.  

GH has 2 bars:  Al J's, which is inside the huge glass conservatory which serves as the 3rd floor bridge between the hotel's two towers, and Jockey Silks, an intimate little place on the 2nd floor of the East(?) Tower.  Al J's has a view of downtown and the river, and the bar is actually a saltwater fish tank with several varieties of fish that swim back and forth under your drink.  Jockey Silks is low-ceilinged, wood-paneled, and has an impressive array of Bourbons.  They're not cheap, but they're reasonable considering their convenient location in the hotel.  We always stop in at one or the other for a nightcap before retiring to our room.

There are three restaurants, four if you count Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse, which is not part of the hotel but is directly accessible from it.  Rivue is the $$$$ upscale penthouse restaurant that has relaxing live music and two parts of the dining area that rotate, giving you an alternatiing view of the river and the skyline.  The food there is excellent, too.  The other restaurant is on the Third Floor and is $$ for us cheapskates-- we've never eaten there, but the food looked and smelled delicious as we walked by.  Fnally, there is Thelma's, a 24/7 snack bar in the conservatory next to Al J's, which has coffee, soft drinks, pastries, and sandwiches.  If you go down to Thelma's in the wee hours, you might see an old, only slightly disheveled homeless man sitting in one of the unoccupied chairs tucked away in a corner.  He wears a once-grand trenchcoat and sits quietly, sipping his cup of Thelma's coffee or dozing. They never run him off and he never makes a sound, an unwritten charitable agreement between them, a mark of true Southern Hospitality.  God bless y'all!.


Friday, January 10, 2014

The Country Diner: True to Its Name.

The Country Diner is on SR 11 in Walesboro, IN, between Seymour and Columbus.  That is, I think it's in Walesboro, 'cause that's the last "Entering" town sign we saw on our way northbound before arriving there on our way back on January 3rd from a New Year's Day trip to Louisville.  (Hey, if Word don't call it a run-on sentence, it ain't one!)  It's a little yellow-tan concrete block building kind of in the middle of nowhere. We'd been hungry ever since leaving the Derby City, but every one of the little independent places I'd looked for on the way were either closed for good or didn't open until later in the day (I was especially peeved that Youa-Carry-Outa in Sellersburg wasn't open for lunch. What better lunch could you have than Chinese food prepared by redneck white people?)  

The Country Diner was thus a welcome little tropical island in the middle of miles of frozen countryside suffering record low (-15) temps, at least we thought it would be. After parking our truck in the lot with all the other trucks and SUV's (not a single car to be seen), however, we discovered the concrete block walls were not well insulated, as everyone in there huddled at their tables still wearing their heavy coats. I sighed a bit, thinking I would see my breath hang in the air; I didn't, but I still felt cold.  "Coffee, STAT!"  I cried, but the 19 to 21 year-old Norma Jean Baker lookalike waitress only smiled blankly.  When the coffee did come, though, it was quite good.  We suddenly discovered that in sitting down at the one open table in the place (which was the longest one in the room) we were poaching on the local Liars' Bench, because a really old guy came in and sat right down with us, looking at me as if we were Native American warriors and he expected the cavalry to arrive at any moment.  Luckily another small table in the corner opened up, and the waitress smiled with relief when we offered to move. Soon afterwards the cavalry did arrive, in the form of 5 more geezers in Carhartts and gimme caps who proceeded to the Liars' Table and began making all kinds of noise, but it was kind of entertaining to see 6 near-cadavers so animated.

The menu was your basic diner grub:  sandwiches, soup of the day, chili, burgers, and tenderloins with fries or tater tots.  She had a grilled tenderloin and I had a bacon cheeseburger, and though maybe they were nothing special they were quite good, especially since we'd been hungry all morning.  The tenderloin was rather thick, not pounded out paper thin like most places, which made it more like a pork chop sandwich.  The bacon burger was 'way decent, with bacon cooked just beyond limp and meaty so that it was just crispy enough to be good on a sandwich.  The thing that struck me most about the food was it was all so danged fresh-- soft buns, fresh crispy lettuce, just-ripe tomatoes and onions.  Add some grease and salt and you would've had the equivalent of a Five Guys burger....  Oh, yeah, the fries were the big crinkle-cut kind, like twice the size of White Castle fries, so they were THE BEST FRIES I've had in a long time. The only bad thing about the place (besides the frigid temp) was that they don't accept credit cards... but they will take checks!  For you younger folk, a check is a piece of paper issued by the bank-- Oh, never mind!  Anyway, I'm telling ya we'll be going back there sometime, y'all!

UPDATE, 02/25/2014:  The check we wrote to the place took 2 and 1/2 weeks to clear our bank in Indy!  I dunno if they wait till they get a bunch of checks before they go to the bank, or the overland stage from Seymour to Induhnaplus failed to stop there in Daleville or what, but I think that's the longest delayed check I've ever gotten from inside the Hoosier State!  It was worth it to have as a souvenir of a fun time, though....