Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Passtime Fish House: The (incredibly) Good (food), the Bad (reputation), and the Ugly (exterior)

Passtime Fish House is on the REALLY far South side of Indy: It's in Jeffersontown, KY (a suburb of Louisville) at Watterson Trail and Locust Road across from Skyview Park.  I've described other places as so small or nondescript that you wouldn't notice them if you weren't looking for them, but you can BE looking for Passtime and not find it-- there's a sign where to turn in, but the place isn't visible from Watterson Trail, and that's probably a good thing because after seeing the outside, many folks  might not want to see the inside.  It's one of those fabled places you often see in movies or on TV but which in reality are quite rare-- a tumbledown shack which conceals a wonderful interior filled with salty waitresses who serve delicious food to lovable regular customers. The first label that you see when you look Passtime up on TripAdvisor is "Hole in the Wall".

It's a little hard to describe and still do it justice: bare, weathered wood exterior walls covered with plywood in some places, metal beer signs nailed to them (maybe to help keep the walls up as much as advertise the beer), and a tin roof.  The parking lot is severely sloped and very roughly paved; it looks like gravel somehow fused together rather than asphalt.  There is a covered (not screened) outdoor deck area that looks rustic but fairly new. It is equipped with picnic-like tables and seems comfortable.  That's good, because on a hot summer day you may have to sit out there due to the inside not being air-conditioned.  That's right, NO AIR CONDITIONING in a functioning 21st Century restaurant!  When The Little Woman and I disembarked from our meat-locker cold vehicle interior into the Kentucky Fried Sunshine and humidity on an 88 degree day, I took one look at the place and figured we'd take our order to go.  

After we'd stumbled across the moonscape parking lot to the inside, however, we found that the darkened interior was tolerably cooler, what with the doors thrown open and a number of floor fans going.  The beating wings of the occasional house fly also contributed to beneficial air movement as well.  A lot of reviews said the waitresses were slow, inattentive, and grumpy, but we were greeted immediately and told to sit wherever we wanted, were waited on promptly and served in a surprisingly short time by an informally clad easy-on-the-eyes waitress. We sat in a comfortable booth which was one of a line of them along one wall.  There is a nice bar on the other side with the usual flat screen TVs and neon beer signs that adorn any decent bar & grill.  Everything was very nice and reasonably clean.  The only thing inside that resembled the rough exterior was the concrete floor which was not level anywhere. sloping in different directions depending on what part of the building you were in.  It would likely make drunken perambulation doubly difficult.

I hope you've read (or skimmed) this far, because here is the really good part: the FOOD! The very worst of the reviews I read nevertheless admitted the food was fantastic.  Their specialty is a Fried Cod sandwich, which TLW had with fries.  I ordered the Passtime Platter, which is a fried cod filet, fried shrimp, and fried oysters, and I added an order of Onion Straws.  You can also get frog legs for $2 more but WHY? The filet was HUGE, but the shrimp were HUGE, in contrast with the oysters which were HUGE, and everything was lightly battered and fried perfectly, which is to say not too much.  The filet was at least an inch thick, the fish moist, tender, and un-fishy. The giant butterflied shrimp and the oysters were tender and seemed extremely fresh. The coating (it was too light and thin to be called breading) had an incredibly flavorful mix of spices, although it was just a tiny little bit salty.  The fries seemed home made and were very tasty. My heaping plate of Onion Straws were the only less than stellar item, having been only lightly fried just like everything else, which in this case made them just a little soggy although they still tasted great: a little time in an oven might have crisped them up some. If you don't like seafood, they do have a HALF-POUND burger that is supposedly very good but takes a while to cook. Finally, Passtime has a wide selection of available beers:   I had a draft Shiner Bock that was ice cold, a welcome relief on a hot Friday afternoon.

I'm going to engage in a bit of sacrilege here....   The most beloved and well-known fish house in the Derby City is, arguably, Mike Linnig's 'way out west on Cane Run Road (although some of the Linnig family actually live nearby in J-town).  I love Mike's fish and its festive park-like ambiance, but-- please don't shoot me-- I love Passtime's fish even more, just sayin'. ...And that's all I'm saying 'cause I have to go before the lightning strikes me.  Order up!

Monday, July 10, 2017

9 Lives Cat Cafe: A Cafe for Cats? No... and Yes

I won't go so far as to say 9 Lives Cat Cafe at the corner of Shelby and Orange Streets is unique, but it is a very unusual place. From the name I wasn't sure exactly what sort of establishment it was, until a brave colleague went there and came back with intelligence that it might be a sort of coffee shop, which for me is a great thing, since almost none of the numerous houses of food and drink in Fountain Square open before Lunch. Apparently most hipsters are not morning people. My Pathfinder said it also involved cats, which is the reason for the enigmatic name.  "How does it involve cats?" I asked, to which the reply was "Go and see!"

Okay, suspense over: The space is one long, narrow store front, one side of which is a fairly standard coffee shop that also serves pastries and light fare.  The other side is what looks like a long living room, with couches, easy chairs to sit in as well as various towers, shelves, and scratching posts for the bunch of cats that inhabit that room.  The cats are up for adoption, and if you're in the market for one, you can be admitted to the room to interact with the feline princes and princesses, if any of them deign to notice you, and allow yourself to be adopted by one of them.  There is a long row of windows in the wall that separates the two sides, with a counter and stools on the coffee side so you can sit and watch the cats do what they do while you sip your coffee.  It really is quite mesmerizing, and very relaxing as well.  As oddball as it seems, I think they're onto something there.

I couldn't stay long so I ordered my large coffee and an eclair to go, and it was FIVE dollars and some change!  My shock and horror abated somewhat, however, when the eclair arrived. It was HUGE, enough for like 3 people (though of course I ate it all), filled with French cream and very tasty.  I was just about to leave but had to pause and watch a big tuxedo cat climb a set of shelves along the opposite wall which were arranged like steps.  He reached the top and looked down.... Was he/she going to pounce on one of the humans below?  Slip off and fall to an ignominious impact with the couch?  I just had to see....